Maximizing the Moza R3
The "Torque Economist’s" Guide to Assetto Corsa Competizione
Dialing in a Moza R3 for Assetto Corsa Competizione (ACC) is a bit of a balancing act. Since the R3 provides 3.9Nm of peak torque, we need to be very "economical" with the feedback. If we waste that limited torque on road noise and vibration, you'll lose the subtle "weight" changes that signal understeer.
Here is a breakdown to help you feel the grip and eliminate the “noise."
Moza Pit House Settings
This is where we shape how the motor reacts to the game's data.
The "Feel" Controls
Game FFB Intensity: The master volume for Moza. Set to 100%.
Max Output Torque Limit: Safety/Limit cap. Keep at 100% to use all $3.9\text{ Nm}$.
FFB Interpolation: Smooths the digital signal. Level 3-5 is the sweet spot for a smooth transition into understeer.
Road Sensitivity: This adds "texture." Since you want to eliminate road noise, set this to 0 or 1.
Soft Limit Stiffness: How hard the wheel stops when you hit the max rotation. Set to Medium/Hard.
The "Natural" Dampers (Motor Physics)
Natural Damping: Adds "weight" or "syrup" to the wheel. 15-25%. This prevents the wheel from feeling "flighty" and helps you feel the weight of the car load up.
Natural Friction: Simulates the mechanical friction of a steering rack. 0-5%. Keep it low so you don't mask the grip loss.
Natural Inertia: Simulates the weight of the steering wheel itself. 100% helps the R3 feel like a larger, heavier base.
Speed & Game Effects
Wheel Spring Strength / Game Spring: These return the wheel to center artificially. Set to 0%. ACC has its own self-centering physics; you don't want the software fighting the game.
Game Damping/Inertia/Friction: These allow the game to use Moza’s internal dampers. Set to 100%, but let the "In-Game" settings do the heavy lifting.
Speed-Dependent Damping: Adds weight at high speeds. Since ACC handles this well, keep this at 0%to keep the feeling consistent.
The Equalizer (FFB EQ)
This is your "filter" for bumps. To achieve your goal of feeling grip but not bumps:
10Hz - 25Hz: These are the "heavy" weight-transfer frequencies. Keep these at 100% or slightly boosted (110%).
40Hz - 60Hz: These are high-frequency vibrations (road noise, engine, small bumps). Turn these down to 20-40% to clean up the signal.
Solving the Brake & Understeer Feel
1. Brake Pedal Calibration (Load Cell)
If your brake doesn't reach 100%, Brake Deadzone won't help because that only affects the "start" of the press.
The Fix: You must calibrate this in Moza Pit House, not just the game. Press the pedal as hard as you comfortably want "100% braking" to be, and click the Set Max button in the Pit House calibration tab. This scales the sensor so your "max" becomes the game's "100%."
2. What is Brake Gamma?
Brake Gamma adjusts the linearity of the pedal.
At 1.0 (Linear): 50% pressure = 50% braking.
At 2.0+ (Exponential): 50% pressure might only equal 25% braking, requiring a much harder push for the final 20% of stopping power.
Recommendation: For a load cell, stick to 1.0. Load cells rely on pressure (muscle memory), and adding a gamma curve usually makes trail braking more inconsistent.
3. Feeling the Understeer
To feel the "slip angle" and understeer on a 3.9Nm wheel:
As you turn into a corner, the wheel should "weight up."
When the tires lose grip (understeer), that weight will suddenly feel lighter.
If your Gain is too high, the motor "clips" (stays at max force), and you won't feel that drop in weight. If you can't feel the understeer, drop your In-Game Gain by 5% increments.